New Zealand- #Mustdos of the South Island

Kia Ora! My trip to New Zealand was a blast; literally and figuratively, both. Read on if you want to know what South Island offers and why is it aptly called the adventure sports capital.

New Zealand perhaps is one of those countries where you have distinct topography and cultural variations when it comes to the north versus south. Neither of the island is the ‘better one’. They are both equally grand, unique and extremely remarkable.

My husband and I have different definitions when it comes to adventure. For me it is the thrill of exploring a place, food, culture and of course a bit interesting things that can happen along the way, while Vish is more like jumping off a plane, cave walking, river rafting, scuba diving (he plans to do that soon) and maybe hiking up a live volcano😉

So here we are heading off to New Zealand to get a taste of adventure.

Day 1 and 2: Arriving in Christchurch in the early hours post-midnight we are welcomed to a heavy downpour and freezing temps. This is what the Kiwis call a normal autumn dayJ. My first reaction was brrrr… nah it was more like whoa if this continues we are soon going to witness snow. Nevertheless, we bundled ourselves for a quick night’s sleep. In the morning rewarding ourselves to a sumptuous breakfast at Cafe Raeward and proceeded on this blinding journey towards Aoraki Mount Cook.

I say blinding as all we could see in the mist and rain was the taillights of the car ahead of us. To top it all, New Zealand roads, I mean all including national highways are 2 laned. Maybe for the locals it’s a way of life, for tourists on a schedule it can be frustrating at time. I’ll stop my rant and continue.

The route towards Aoraki after we get off the main SH 80, the Christchurch-Queenstown highway is also called the International dark sky reserve, one of the best spots to stargaze. If it is the Milky Way or constellations you are keen on, I bet you’ll be amply rewarded. Take a rug, find a slope and just look up; just ensure you do so it in summer, autumn and winter may result in frost bite.

A major tip: Always allow for more time than what Google Maps suggests. The roads are extremely winding, narrow and just go on forever in New Zealand.

Aoraki did not disappoint us. It laid the white carpet for us. We drove through a snow storm, trekked to the Tasman Glacier Lake on thin ice and enjoyed a round of snow fight. For adventure, it ticked off both our boxes.

In case of accommodation there is something for everyone in the Mount Cook National Park area. From dorms to motels to swanky high end hotels, there is enough to choose from. If you are unsure about staying up in the mountains, the nearest towns are Twizel and Lake Tekapo. Both towns offer a range of restaurants, cafes and accommodation options.

In terms of activities, the main ones are Mountaineering, Mountain walks, Glacier scenic viewing from a Helicopter/ flight, Glacier walk/skiing or just walking on the numerous trails along the rivers.

Tips: Mountain climbers don’t require a permit. Local tours and guides are available for all other activities.

Day 3: Onwards we went towards the southern fjords the next day. After a quick hot lunch at Jasmine Thai in Twizel, we zig zagged through the Southern Alps towards Te Anau. While Google says it would take around 5 hours, it is definitely closer to a 7 hour journey if not more. So once again, always allow extra time. Te anau is a small township just outside the Fjord National park and is a wonderful place to just relax and chill. Surprise, surprise we found a chinese restaurant (they are always there) and a great Indian restaurant too (now that was good). Dinner at Radha’sIndian restaurant was welcoming and they did spice levels to Indian standards if requested.

That night we crashed. 7 hours on mountainous roads is exhausting and can at times affect your centre of gravity. A comfy bed and a toasted room is all you need. Ta da, next day we are bright eyed and bushy tailed to head to the Fjords.

Day 4: Finally the day dawned bright and sunny. Oh yes, after 3 days of incessant rains, we were pleased to have the sun shining on us. The drive to Milford sound is almost a 2 hour journey. Also keep in mind, there is a section of one way tunnel which operates on a signal and can have traffic back up for almost a kilometre. So factor this in while planning your day. We made it with 15 minutes to spare for our cruise. The Milford Sovereign took us on this beautiful ride along the Sound.

A young member of earth’s geology (just over 400 million years) Milford Sound is an extremely fragile piece of the ecosystem. Home to the Pounamu (Greenstone) Jade, rare black corals, Paua Shells, fur seals, penguins and dolphins, it is a treat to sail between the glaciers and sea and take in the sights. In the summer, you can kayak closer to the socially forward dolphins.

Tip: Check local Australian and New Zealand coupon sites for good deals on cruises. Always pre book cruises and call them before heading out. Weather in the fjords can change drastically at short notice.

Now we had to drive again northwards towards Queenstown. Not as arduous as a 7 hour journey, it was tiring nevertheless. The highlight of the day, or the evening would be to see millions of stars as twilight set in over the Lake Wakatipu area. It was an experience to witness and not capture. Queenstown was to be our base for the next few days.

Day 5: The big day had arrived. My husband was all gung ho about his skydiving experience. Driving him to the airfield I watched him prepare for his jump. 

Oh, did I mention we had his parents with us on this adventurous journey. A pair of enthusiastic seniors who loved doing random things like seeing their son jump-off a plane to serious snow fights😀 

Well we had a ball of a time waiting to spot the popcorn burst from the plane and lo behold 10 minutes later husband arrives back to terra firma all smiling with his ears blocked. An experience not to be missed, in his words he had ticked it off his bucket list. What a view to add to that.

Undoubtedly the best place for adventure sports the quality control and care as well as the infrastructure they have is commendable. I have my own list for the next trip.

Tip: Skydive is a half a day activity. Also don’t plan anything strenuous for the rest of the day as air pressure can sometimes affect you and you could feel dizzy afterwards. Keep a buffer day while booking, as the activity is closely related to the weather and wind pattern and may need to be rebooked.

We roamed the streets of Queenstown and grabbed some grub at this funny little place called Balls and Bangles. Their soup was really good and filling and comes with a bagel of your choice. To wrap up the day we headed upwards again; this time about half a kilometre to the top of the town on a gondola.

Arguably one of the steepest I have sampled, the view was worth all the jumps and pauses along the way. With a clear sky and the setting sun behind us our eyes took in the Crown ranges, Lake Wakatipu and myriad colours of Queenstown.

Day 6: Today was the day to explore the area and appreciate the culture and history. Starting off at Mirror lakes, just outside Queenstown, Lake Hayes is a true reflection of the beauty of New Zealand. 

Next we drove to Arrowtown to know more about the Gold Rush era and the contribution by Chinese prospectors. The story of the harsh conditions they worked in and what a difference striking gold meant to them. The Chinese contribution to New Zealand's gold rush era is huge and talks about the heart warming tales of how an industrious set of people decided to travel to an unknown world so that their impoverished families back home could be more comfortable. 

As a family we did not want to not do the touristy thing. So we headed to Lake Wanaka to sight #thatwanakatree jutting out of the lake. If any of you have seen the little mermaid in Copenhagen and realized how little it actually is you would understand what I am saying. For the most photographed tree, it was a small thing and it had taken 70 years for it to grow this tall.

On our way back we visited the Cardona Valley Distillery. It produces some awesome single malt Vodka and gin and also has a beautiful entrance filled with colourful bras. It started as a controversial attraction, but now supports breast cancer awareness. You may leave one, if you have any to spare.

Day 7: On the Last leg of the journey we headed back towards Christchurch. A long drive in cold conditions our only pit stop was Lake Tekapo around tea time. The lake is so serene and the ripples on the surface that the wind creates are magical.  I am not going to spoil it for you. See it, feel it, experience it.

Day 8: Christchurch thankfully was not wet. A typical city it is an electic mix of period and new age architecture. Still being rebuilt after the catastrophic earthquake of 2011, the city exudes a small town charm in a big city garb.

We explored the CBD on foot and trust me that is the best way to see it.  The Botanical gardens, Museum and walking along the old square and cathedral is a must. There is an old tram that would take you to all landmarks and important places (Price: $ 45 pp) and is essentially a hop on hop off.

The gardens in Hagley Park are the green city’s green lungs. A massive park that houses the extensive botanical gardens and the Museum is at the far end of the southern side. You can also try your hand at Punting on the Avon in case you are in mood for a romantic evening or just plain want to indulge yourself. (Price:$ 28 pp). Alternatively you could buy a combo pass that includes the tram, punting, gonodola and a guided tour of the Botanical gardens for $ 86.

Day 9: Oh this one rolled in cold. We headed to the Antarctic Centre. This is a place that you should not miss. It is an absolute #NZmustdo.

 The ice continent experience has been recreated next to the Airport in a large complex. An amazing place that is informative and interactive. From seeing rescued penguins to the huskies with their icy blue eyes to standing in a -38 C snowstorm like you were in Antarctica, to taking a 4D cruise to the frozen continent it is downright cool.  Added bonus you get to ride the Hagglund, a military style snow vehicle on a terrain similar to Antarctica. That was bone rattling and I respect the people/ scientists who 

call Antarctica home.

Day 10: Bidding adieu is always tough and it was more so as we had an early morning 6 am flight. Cold days and early morning flights are such a no-no, but choice did we have. On the flight back to a warmer Sydney I had already started making plans for the next holiday, when I suddenly realized Vish was fast asleep. How typical!

A 10 day Sample itinerary to explore central and south west South Island, NZ.

Christchurch- Mount Cook- Te Anau/Milford Sound- Queenstown- Christchurch

• Day 1: Arrive at Chc. Leave for Mt Cook depending on arrival time. If late, stay put.
• Day 2: Mt Cook
• Day 3: Te Anau
• Day4: Milford Sound. Come back to Te Anau or head to Queenstown
• Day 5-7- Queenstown and surrounds
• Day8-10-Christchurch

Christchurch- Franz Josef Glacier- Lake Wanaka- Te Anau/ Milford Sound- Queenstown- Christchurch

• Day 1: Arrive at Chc. Leave for Franz Josef depending on arrival time. If late, stay put.
• Day 2: Franz Josef & Fox Glaciers. Stay put
• Day 3: Lake Wanaka
• Day4: Milford Sound. Stay put at Te Anau for the night
• Day 5-7- Queenstown and surrounds
• Day8-10-Christchurch

A longer holiday means relaxed schedules and a lot more off beat stuff to explore.

Things to note:

• Pack a good all weather jacket and sturdy walking shoes. The weather is super unpredictable even in high summer. Always dress in layers.
• If you have sensitive skin, carry a moisturizer and a good sun protection agent with you. (I usually rub coconut oil as an effective sunscreen)
• April is the best time to see autumn colours and July-Aug is the best to Ski. Spring, summer and autumn are good for adventure sports
• Drink loads of water and carry motion sickness medication if need be, as the roads can be a trial.

Above all keep calm and soak in the untouched parts of earth and be glad you are able to experience the land where the Dinos walked.

In the heart of Mewar History and Hospitality

As the clock struck 11 and we sped towards land of bravery and folk tales the first thought that came to my mind is will it be as I had envisaged it to be? It was much more than that… it was sheer bliss.

Arriving at Sardar Patel Airport, Ahmedabad Vishal and I were welcomes by a waft of hot moist air and it felt very much of the 29 degrees centigrade. Our driver Ganesh and car were ready to whisk us off to Mewar land. A 4 hour journey traversing different landscape and changing colours the almost super roads made it a pleasurable experience. Not sure if I should attribute this pleasure to a certain person's efforts in our neighbouring stateJ. Nevertheless as we sped by the clouds opened up and set the pace for the next few days.

Whenever we say the word Rajasthan the first thing that comes to mind (Indian or otherwise) is golden sand dunes with colourful clothes and decked up camels!  But the road leading to Udaipur or the city itself is far removed from quintessential Rajasthan. Green moors with winding streams and occasional haveli’s atop hills is the sight that welcomes anyone who travels on the NH 8 between Ahmedabad and Udaipur.

Udaipur, founded in 1559 by Maharana Udai Singh II became the new capital of the Mewar Kingdom in the 16^th century.  Situated on the banks of Lake Pichola the city also known as “Venice of the east” is truly a sight to behold especial during the rains. Lake Pichola, Fateh Sagar Lake, Udai Sagar and Swaroop Sagar together have earned Udaipur the name of ‘City of lakes’. 

On arriving (we had lots of help from Google navigator and locals) at our hotel Jaiwana Haveli, we were glad that we had made the right decision. Ours was an impromptu trip to Udaipur for the Independence Day weekend in mid-August and finding accommodation during peak holiday season is always a nightmare. But finding a clean spacious room with a great view made us feel real lucky! We had an excellent 3 night stay and thanks to Harsh& Yash, the brothers who run the family owned property, we managed to see lots and yet had time to relax.  That evening we decided ride the cable car from the base to Machli Magra that housed the local goddess shrine. What we did not expect was the kind of view we got form the hill top. The sun played peek a boo all evening and to view the city during sunset was a sight I would not forget easily.

Udaipur’s City palace is a city by itself. Home to the Rana of Mewar it’s a huge citadel with additions to the main wing over the last 4 centuries. The family of Sriji Arvind Singh Mewar, custodian of the kingdom, resides within the palace grounds in a quaint palace on the shores of the lake. The City Palace Museum, Udaipur was set up in 1969 by HH Maharana Bhagwat Singh to safeguard and preserve the cultural heritage and the time honoured traditions of the people of Mewar. 

As you step in to the palace grounds you are immediately transported back in time and as you move through the narrow passages leading to huge rooms you truly feel royal. Each room of the palace speaks for itself and is testimony to the brave kings and nobles of Mewar.

After a long walk stretching to almost four hours we took the long awaited boat ride on Lake Pichola. The rains had filled the lake to its brim and with the water lapping softly on sides of the boat Vishal and I relaxed and enjoyed the different sights ranging from the Taj Lake Palace (famous as Octopussy’s abode) to Bagore Ki Haveli to Jag Mandir Palace. Overlooking both the city palace and Taj Lake Palace, Jag Mandir Island is beautiful and well was decked up to owing to a wedding in the evening J

After a sumptuous lunch ( food was always tasty and hot) at  Govinda café right in between city palace and Jagdish Mandir  we took a short hike up to Gangaur Ghat where our driver was ready to take us to our next destination- Jaisamand Lake.

Jaisamand Lake, officially known as Dhebar is Asia’s second largest artificial reservoir spread over 87 square kilometres. Located to the south of Udaipur it was the world’s largest till the Aswan Dam was built in Egypt. The most amazing feature of the lake is the 1200 feet long marble bund built along its shore. Surrounded by the Jaismand Wildlife sanctuary, home to migratory birds & summer palaces of the queens the lake is haven of solitude. Bhils the people of Rajasthan reside in this area and reside on all the 11 islands on the lake.  The blue waters of the lake stark against the marble cenotaphs on the shore are the living examples of the grandeur and art prevalent then.

An evening spent in the bylanes of the main market area of Udaipur (Bada Bazaar and Bapu Bazaar) is an experience. From lac bangles to Bandhini saris to wooden artefacts to silver shops it’s a pandemonium at its best! But the icing on the cake was going to Jodhpur Mishthan Bhandar (in Udaipur) and buying hot ghewar (a local sweet prepared around teej time) and being confused as to what to carry back home.

Next on agenda was Eklingji temple (the royal temple of Mewar) situated in the village of Eklingji on the highway towards Nathdwara. On reaching early in the morning we realized the temple would open for mid-morning darshan only at 10. With an hour to kill in a 100 people village , we decided to take help from a very resourceful farmer cum shop keeper at the temple gates. He directed us to the nearby Nagda Sas Bahu temple.

Nagda, originally the capital of the Mewar kingdom till the capital city of Udaipur was established, is actually famous for the unusual Sas- bahu (not exactly MIL- DIL, but a slang for Sahastra Bahu) temple that dates back to the 10th century. Built during reign of Rana Kumbha this beautiful temple lies on the banks of Lake Bagela (actually a lotus pond with old structures popping out of the water). The temple dome and walls are adorned with ornate carvings of Vishnu, Shiv and Brahma and stories from different puranas. The exquisite craftsmanship was simply outstanding. Nagda, also houses a strange and ancient Jain temple with a 9 feet high black statue of Jain Saint Shanti Nath. Although destroyed by the foreign invaders they continue to be exceptional pieces of art.

Moving on post our darshan at Eklingji as directed by the resourceful shop keeper we took a shorter route through 3 villages  that would eventually hit the highway that connects Udaipur to Haldi Ghati and from there to Kumbhalgarh. Haldi Ghati needs no introduction, nevertheless the long drive towards the actual site of war was a bit of a disappointment as the Museum dedicated to Maharana Pratap and his faithful horse Chetak was way ahead of the actual battle field. 
Apparently it’s not so easy to access it (maybe the prime reason for ambush tactic in the 16^th century war)and we had to settle for scaled down model of the area (with red and green lights J) to bring alive the story of the famous Battle of Haldi Ghati between Rana Pratap and the Mughal army led by Man Singh.

The road to Kumbhalgarh is a long, circuitous and tiring drive through beautiful forests and streams. The Kumbhalgarh Wildlife Sanctuary surrounds the entire perimeter area of the fort. The most amazing fact about the 37 Km long boundary wall, the second longest after the Great Wall of China, is relatively unknown and was not visible till we reached around a 1km to the fort doors. Strategically built Kumbhalgarh never fell to invaders and has always provided protection to all those who seek.

Restored by Sriji Arvind Singh Mewar a few years back its sheer size dwarfs you…but guess what the entry ticket was priced at only `5!!!! To maintain such a beautiful heritage property its essential to charge local and foreign tourists a substantial amount only then (the locals at least) would appreciate the fact that the walls have stood testimony to generations of Rana rule, invaders and many a battle fought in Mewar region of Rajasthan.  Some trivia on Kumbhalgarh;

The only fort that offered asylum to Rana Udai Singh, when his nurse maid saved him from being killed at the hands of a traitor in turn sacrificing her own son

Birth place of Maharana Pratap and his formative years were spent here.

Never fallen to any siege laid… Less known in terms of its famous counterpart Chittorgarh Fort, but very superior in scale and grandeur

Most important it takes more than 2 hours (which was all that we could spend unfortunately) and is a place wrapped in history.

By the way I almost forgot, we witnessed an unusual event (maybe for Vishal and me) right in the middle of the narrow state highway at the local bus stop. A lady was hitting a guy and appealing for help (don’t know what that guy actually did but by the looks of it maybe he deserved it) and the bus drivers were the only ones to intervene. In rural India a lady being harassed is a source of entertainment or apathy as no one came forward to help her. Post the mayhem and finally getting away from the scene, we decided on a quick Rajasthani thali lunch at a local eatery. Make sure you eat at this last town as there is no eatery on the last leg of 20 odd kms unless you plan to figure a house inside the fort to feed you!

By the time we meandered back to Udaipur all of us (car included) were tired and ready to hit the sack. But it had rained in Udaipur and the weather was extremely pleasant with a soft breeze blowing over the lake. Twinkling stars and an almost full moon (the moon always looks bigger out there) and d1inner at the roof top restaurant of Jaiwana Haveli overlooking the lit palaces all around you invariably was the best place to unwind after a long tiring day...

Undoubtedly Udaipur is a dream destination for a romantic holiday, but steeped in history and art it’s a place that stays with you long after you return to the chaos of daily routine.

The whole idea behind writing about the recent debate ripping through our nation –The Lokpal Bill, was to make a point. As the present and future of this nation, we young Indians need to jump in and make our presence felt. It is time to take stock of the situation and join in together to fight against the crimes tearing our country apart. ‘People against Corruption’ is one such campaign and we should be aware and make the government aware of its responsibilities towards the citizens of India.

Circa 1969, the first time the Lokpal bill was presented at the Loksabha (House of the People) but did not manage to get through to Rajya Sabha (Council of States) was the fisrt step taken against corruption. Lokpal bills were introduced at regular intervals time and again all through the 70’s, 80’s, 90’s and last in 2008, yet they were never passed and its pending status describes the dire state of affairs of a huge democracy like India.

Corrupt as a word has its origin from Latin "corruptus": spoiled or ‘corrumpere" to ruin, literally break to pieces. Corrupt according to some dictionary definitions is best described as a verb or adjective that means lacking in integrity, open to or involving bribery or other dishonest practices, morally degenerate and perverted, putrid or rotten, contaminated, to become or cause to become dishonest. India at its best is a good example when it comes to the above said words. The Indian state being the worlds largets democracy is also a breeding ground for corrupt officials, practices and law breaking activities which time and again have proved the need and validity of the Lokpal Bill.

Watching the news for the last few days has made me think, what is it that the government can do so that we as citizens feel that we have not only the nominal right to vote for a representative (who normally is corrupt with civil/ criminal cases pending under his name) but also make sure that we aren’t fleeced at every given point.

The Jan Lokpal Bill is a draft anti-corruption bill drawn up by prominent civil society activists seeking the appointment of a Jan Lokpal, an independent body that would investigate corruption cases, complete the investigation within a year and envisages trial in the case getting over in the next one year. Nevertheless the present government and its supporters or oppositions are gearing up for eyewash in terms of the Lokpal bill. According to a recent debate, civil society though has the right to know what the government is planning to do with the Lokpal Bill doesn’t have the right to intervene and ask for a joint panel in terms of drafting of the bill. Lokpal is the highest institution in India to investigate corruption at higher places in Government, including that of the Prime Minister (though this is still under debate).

Guided by the philosophy of Gandhi, Dr Kisan Baburao Hazare aka Anna Hazare, has struck again for the cause of the ‘aam aadmi’ and taken up the cause of common man and his fight against corruption. His movement ‘People against Corruption’ is gathering momentum and his decision to go on a fast till the government relents proves that the GOI needs to understand that unlike the last 42 years, this time around the people of India (both on and offshore) are serious about this bill being passed and come in to effect soon.

It’s a shame that our so called “political leader” are requesting Dr. Hazare to give up the fast on one hand and on the other not even considering the demand of a joint committee involving eminent members of the civil society while the drafting of the bill. The major reasons the Lokpal Bill drafted by the government is facing stiff opposition is due to the callousness of the bill in terms of the situations it has to handle in future.

The governments’ bill suggests that the Lokpal will not have any power to either initiate action in any case or even receive complaints of corruption from general public. The general public will make complaints via speaker of Lok Sabha or Chairperson of Rajya Sabha and only those complaints forwarded by Speaker or Chairperson of either houses would be then investigated by Lokpal. After this long drawn procedure the GOI has suggested the Lokpal or Ombudsman to be a advisory body which would suggest options to the government and would then pass on its report to the competent authority, which in case can range from the Prime Minister, Lok Sabha or Rajya Sabha. What kind of transparency is the government planning to maintain then? None!

The number of loopholes the existing bill has is enough for the ‘aam aadmi’ to raise a hue and cry about a situation as serious as corruption. Year 2010 has been the worst in Indian history in terms of corruption exposure and scams coming to light. Be it the Adarsh society scam or 2G or the Commonwealth Games, we Indians have been put to shame every time due to the senseless actions of our leaders and the lack of transparency and effective control over corruption.

Examples from various countries suggest that the institution of ombudsman has very successfully fought against corruption and unscrupulous administrative decisions by public servants. Sweden was the first nation which established an Ombudsman Office in 1809. Since then 121 other nations around the world have adopted this form of representation and the protection of human rights being one of the major purposes of such a representation. It’s our right to live in a corrupt free state and the government should finally wake up and do something about it rather than raise objections to civil society being part of the drafting committee.

Its been 62 years after Independence and what are we as citizens of the country doing? It takes a man like Anna Hazare to awaken the sleeping society to fight against corruption and demand that the governing authority take cognisance of what the people of the country want and not what is being forced upon us (as is been the case for the last 62 years).

The current movement spearheaded by Anna Hazare and other eminent social activists is a form of representation of the agitation and anger simmering in the hearts and minds of young Indians. Its a movement to pressurize or persuade the government in to taking an effective action against corruption and free the Indian society of a bane like corruption. The popularity of the movement and the interest it has been able to generate and the support garnered over the alst few days speaks of the angst and anguish in the minds of several Indians across the nation and all over the world. Its now the duty of the government to provide a nation of 1.2 billion people of which over 1/3rd still live below the poverty line a decent lifestyle sans corruption.

As a young Indian, I proud to be part of the generation which has finally realized the need of the hour and grateful to Anna Hazare and others who have initiated this campaign to make a difference in the lives of billions of Indians living in urban and rural India. It’s high time the Lokpal Bill is enacted and a strong society rises above corruption.Its not only the 'World cup' we need to win the world with a new India.